Words: Sarah Tarca // @tarca

Maybe it’s our age, maybe it’s Google listening to our whining about wrinkles, but lately it seems collagen – and more specifically collagen drinks – are getting a lot of airtime on our feeds (and admittedly, our 3am net searches). It’s not just that there seems to be endless choices on the market (which there are), or even that you’re not exactly sure if they work (which they do), or what the difference between them all is (many) but more that even the topic of collagen itself is baffling.

Discussing this in one of my many WhatsApp groups recently, it turns out I wasn’t the only one with many questions. Everyone was feeling the same way. So we turned to someone who specialises in this stuff to help us wade through them all. Not just any ols someone either. Cate Lilja is a Nutritional, herbal, and complementary medicine scientist, and also the Co-Founder of Optima Nutricometics, who’s ingestible beauty supplement Skin Food Elixir has the highest serve of collagen on the market (which is our personal fave AND you can get 20% off by using the code Wayward [case sensitive] at the checkout).

But this article isn’t about our personal bias. It’s about sorting what you need to know from the marketing BS. May the plump skin Gods be ever in your favour.

Let’s start with the basics: What exactly is collagen?

Collagen is a protein, comprised of amino acids (the building blocks for all proteins) – predominantly glycine, proline, alanine, and hydroxyproline. Collagen fibres are long strands of these amino acids that provide structure and hold moisture in connective tissue: they are the building block for skin, tendons, and bones. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, making up about one third of the protein in the body.

OK so we already have collagen in our bodies from birth - right?

There are five important types of collagen in our body with types 1 and 3 being the predominant type in skin. Collagen type 1 makes up 90 per cent of the collagen in our body and, as well as skin, it’s also present in bones and blood vessels.

Collagen is made by cells called fibroblasts, which in our skin, are located in the deeper dermis layer. Fibroblasts for these long strands of collagen from amino acids that come from our diet.

What’s the deal with ageing and collagen?

Like every cell in our body, fibroblast function slows down as we age. They start to produce less collagen and the quality of that collagen can degrade, becoming weaker.

What other factors contribute to loss of collagen?

Oxidative stress is a big factor. This can be caused by external environmental factors such as exposure to UV, pollution, and cigarette smoke or it can be caused by internal stressors such as lack of sleep and emotional stress. Dietary factors can also contribute – high saturated fat and sugar intake can also affect your bodies ability to make good quality collagen. A poor diet could also lead to poor gut health which we know can lead to low grade inflammation and impact on the function of every cell in your body.

I personally saw my collagen take a dive after breast feeding? Can you shed any light on that?

There can be a few contributing factors. Stress and exhaustion can lead to oxidative stress and the production of different stress hormones in your body that can affect the function of fibroblasts. Your nutritional needs are also greatly increased during this time. The amino acid building blocks are not the only nutrients fibroblasts need to make new collagen – vitamin c, zinc, iron and silicon are all essential in this process too.

Is it possible to replenish the loss of collagen in your skin?

Yes. You can do this by addressing all of the factors that can cause it to degrade in the first place. A nutrient-dense diet that nourishes your gut and contains plenty of all of the essential nutrients for building collagen is vital. Plant based antioxidant phytonutrients will also help to protect collagen and your cells from oxidative stress so that they function better. Topical products do offer some level of protection, but it’s important to ingest antioxidants too that are carried via your circulation to the deeper layer of skin that topical products can not necessarily access.

It’s also been shown the collagen peptides actually stimulate your fibroblasts to produce more, new and better quality collagen. And of course try to avoid the damaging things like too much exposure to UV, smoking and managing your stress levels.

“Collagen protein is only present in animals, so in effect there is no such thing as vegan collagen…”

What “types” of collagen are available on the market, and how do they work?

There are many sources of collagen supplements available and all contain varying levels of collagen. So, it’s important to supplement with the right collagen to get the benefit you are after.

Marine Collagen (made from the skin of fish) is predominantly type 1 collagen. This means it has a greater affinity with human skin than other types. It has a unique amino acid profile compared with collagen produced from land dwelling animals that has led scientists to believe that it is the most suitable for improving skin health. In fact, marine collagen has been extensively tested in human clinical trials which have shown it can increase production of collagen and elastin in the skin, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin hydration and improve skin texture. It also reduces oxidative stress (a factor in skin ageing) and improves the strength of hair and nails.

Bovine collagen (made from the hide and bones of beef cattle) also contains relatively high quantities of type 1 collagen, however it also contains type 3. It has been studied for its ability to support joint and muscle health and speed recovery after exercise.

Porcine collagen (made from pig skin) is also a combination of type 1 and 3 and may therefore support joint and muscle health. It has also been the subject of small studies looking at its benefits on skin health however the jury is still out as to the effect.

Chicken collagen (made from chicken cartilage) is primarily Type 4 – a less abundant collagen in our body and present mainly in tendons and cartilage.

‘Vegan’ collagen is something you may have seen on the market. However, collagen protein is only present in animals, so in effect there is no such thing as vegan collagen. The thing that sets collagen apart from plant-based proteins is its unique amino acid profile and the peptides (small proteins) that these form. Collagen contains two peptides called propyl-hydroxyproline and hydroxypropyl-glycine that actually stimulate fibroblasts to make collagen.

The other important factor to consider is bioavailability – this is a measure of how much of the collagen actually reaches the tissues where it is active. With collagen, this all comes down to particle size, and it’s a case of the smaller the better as smaller particles are absorbed more easily across the gut wall into the bloodstream. In its raw form collagen cannot be absorbed, instead it is broken down to small peptides in a process called hydrolysation. Hydrolysed peptides are the smallest available form of collagen and the most bioavailable.

Hydrolysed Marine Collagen Peptides consistently deliver smaller collagen particles and may therefore be the better choice for optimum absorption and benefit to skin health.

How exactly do ingestible collagen powders work and what makes them so effective (compared to say, tablets)

Collagen does two things. It provides the amino acids your body needs to make its own collagen, and the specific peptides in collagen also stimulate your fibroblasts to make more new collagen.

Collagen has been tested to be active and effective for improving skin condition from dosages of about three grams up to ten grams – and the effect is dose dependent – so the more you take the better the effect. Ten grams of collagen thought is equivalent to about 20 capsules or 15 tablets per day! Not to mention the carriers used in tablets to hold them all together. Collagen is a natural food powder, its tasteless, soluble and can be used in cooking, smoothies or used on its own so it really is the best option for collagen supplementation.

What is the link between collagen and mood/mental health?

The gut is the second brain – in fact 90 percent of the serotonin in your body is produced in the gut. Poor gut health and an imbalanced microbiome can impact directly on mood and mental health, so it’s very important to look after and nourish your gut and also your microbiome. The proteins in collagen can nourish the lining of the gut wall and are thought to improve overall gut health and function.

Is it possible to overdose on collagen?

There are no reported issues or maximum dosages for collagen. As with anything though moderation is key. Collagen is a protein-based food and so your collagen consumption should be considered part of your daily protein intake. It is not a complete protein though, so should not be used as your sole source of protein. Collagen has been clinically trialled at dosages of up to 10g and has been shown to be effective for improving skin health at this level. A safe bet would be to stick with the science and use 10g a day as part of a balanced diet.

is it safe for pregnancy and breastfeeding?

Collagen peptides are considered safe whilst breastfeeding and may even assist with repair of skin and connective tissue after birth. As for pregnancy, it is usually advised that before taking anything new whilst pregnant you talk to your qualified health care practitioner to see if it is right for your personal circumstances. Collagen can be an easily digested source of protein and amino acids that assist with the maintenance and repair of connective tissue and skin but d check the other ingredients in the product before taking it.

Optima Nutricosmetics Skin Food Elixir, $159

Is there an optimal time of day to take it?

Collagen peptides are small proteins and highly bioavailable. It’s also been shown that collagen is active in the skin for up to 14 days after consumption so regardless of the time of day you take collagen it can be absorbed and utilised by the body.

WIll it make all of my other hair grow faster too?

It’s possible! But that’s not to say you will have thicker or more hair, or that you will start to sprout androgenic hair (eg facial hair) – that relies on hormones. Collagen can turnover the growth of hair so all this means is that your fine body hair (or vellus hair) may also start to turn over faster.

We’re in! So How long until i get my bouncy, plump skin?

Based on the science, benefits can be seen after just four weeks and significant improvements to skin condition and appearance are evident after eight weeks of supplementation. This includes improved skin hydration and elasticity, reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and increased production of collagen.

Everyone is so different though and depending on the health and condition of your gut and skin, your age, genetics and overall health you may have results much faster than this or it may take longer. Some case studies have even reported improved skin hydration after just a few days of taking collagen.

And lastly… I’m so over smoothies. Are there any, more creative ways to take it?

Collagen powder can be used in cooking but make sure you check the label first for other ingredients in your product that might be destroyed by heat.

Optimas Ultimate 1.0 Complete Skin Food Elixir is strawberry flavoured collagen powder – but does contain some heat sensitive antioxidant phytonutrients – it does make a delicious addition to raw slices and desserts though! Try this recipe!

If you’re keen to try the Skin Food Elixir, Optima have given us a special discount of 20% . Just enter the code Wayward (case sensitive) at the checkout. Enjoy!

Everything you've ever wanted to know about collagen